El Cuyo is a sand spit island located off the beaten track to the north of the Yucatan. Geographically, it's not too far from Isla Holbox, the up and coming destination that tourists have been flocking to over the past 5 years. However, whereas Holbox has quickly reached tourist saturation, El Cuyo is still undeveloped and maintains that off the beaten track charm.
Of course, being so isolated, there's compromises to be made. Supermarkets are very small with limited products, so a trip en-route to stock up is essential. Restaurants are plentiful but inexplicably you might hit the odd day where they are mostly closed or your chosen destination just hasn't opened. We stopped in Tizimin to stock up on the way from Merida. The supermarket there was a good size and was way cheaper than other supermarkets we had used on the trip. We also had Big Beef butchers recommended to us so called there to stock up on some BBQ essentials for a bargain price.
There's several small hotels, but by far the best options are the rentals to be found on either Booking or Air BnB. Nowhere it too far from the sea, but we do think that the sea side of the island is a better option than the lagoon side.
The beach goes on for miles and miles and miles in both directions, with a rental car, you can explore the sandy roady in either direction, just be careful and don't venture on the unmade roads if the weather has been too wet or you will inevitably get yourselves stuck in the mud.
Day trips away from town were an adventure and the deserted beaches were a big attraction. Just pack plenty of water/beer/drinks and maybe an umbrella for shade.
The restaurants in town were great value, our favourites were Mikaela Steakhouse, Naia Cafe and opposite our apartment was Casa Palma for some of the best wood fired pizza we've eaten. There were numerous other places we didn't get to try but that shouldn't put you off. The locals were a friendly bunch and despite not much english being spoked by most, any attempt at rudimentary spanish was appreciated.
We had 7 nights in El Cuyo and all loved the place. The beach, the pier at night, the quiet atmosphere, the friendly locals and the abundance of dogs. Despite our better judgement we've decided to share this gem of a place. It's not a sanitised, AI resort, this is the real mexican beach town experience and boy we loved it.